This could be the Ultimate peak climb in Nepal
Mera Peak and Island Peak represent two of the most challenging "trekkable peaks" in Nepal. While alone, neither mountain is of any technical significance, combined and with the added remoteness and technical nature of the Amphu Ladtsa, the Mera Peak and Island Peak combined expedition is one of the most challenging, spectacular and rewarding journeys available. Mera Peak provides awesome remote trekking and unsurpassed views of some of the great Himalaya peaks. The journey over Mera La up the Hongku Glacier is rarely undertaken and provides the adventurous with great glacial challenges. The Hongku ends abruptly at the Amphu Labtsa, where our climbing guide will assist you in this technical ascent and descent down to the Imja valley. From there we will head for base camp of Island Peak. Sufficiently acclimatized, we ascend one of Nepal's most beautiful peaks for awesome views of some of the highest mountains in the world.
North Face Glacier from Mera La : The base camp can be set up at 5,300m near Mera La on the Hongu side in the moraine below the ice. From here a high camp is set at 5,800m near a rocky outcrop on the Mera Glacier. The high camp proves to be one to the most glorious viewpoints in Nepal offering the panoramic views of Kanchanjunga, Chamlang, Makalu and Baruntse sweeping around from the east and Amadablam, Cho Oyu and Kangtega to the west. The giant faces of Everest, Lhotse and Nuptse appear in the north. There are three main summits which are climbable without much difficulty. The south summit (6,065m) is the most accessible with the Northern Summit (6,476m), the highest, which can be reached by skirting the Central Summit (6,461m) to the north and following snow ridge to its top. Climbing the middle summit requires ascent up on steep snow and is more technical. Mera North is straight-forward to climb.
Amphu Labtsa Pass : Return trek through the upper Hongu valley and then over the high pass of Amphu Laptsa to come out at Chukung in the upper Imja river valley near Island Peak. From here a visit can be made to Everest Base camp and return to Lukla. This is a very high altitude trek through glaciated valleys with possibilities of being stranded in adverse weather condition. Only strong, well equipped, groups should attempt this route.
Island Peak : Normally, the base camp is set at Pareshaya Gyab (5,087m), between Imja Tse and the lateral moraine of the Imja Glacier. It should not be forgotten that the place is more likely for avalanche in the event of heavy snow fall. From the base camp, a well acclimatised party in good conditions can make the summit and return to the base camp in a day. However, most of the climbers prefer establishing a High-Camp which helps a safe ascent. From the base camp the route skirts south east around and base of Imja Tse and climbs steep grassy slopes and small rocky steps. We scramble up on open gully which leads between two ridges to the site of high camp on the left-hand ridge below and to the right of a small hanging glacier (5,280m). From the high camp, the left hand ridge scramble across the broad open gully. After crossing a gully, a steep snow and ice ramp leads upward for nearly 100 meters to the summit ridge. Climbing near the summit is a little difficult due to steep climbing. In recent times the snow slopes below the summit has developed some large crevasses making the final ascent to the top difficult.
Climbing in comfort with the best equipment
We stay in the full-supported tented camps with EXPED down filled mattresses, for extra comfort. As a safety precaution, we always carry a Portable Altitude Chamber (PAC) and Oxygen along with a comprehensive medical kit and a satellite phone for communication in case of emergency so you can be completely confident that your safety and comfort are our priorities. Mountain Monarch provide all the personal and group climbing gears including LA-SPORTIVA’s Nepal Extreme climbing boots to make your trip to Mera Peak hassle free and cost effective.
Day 1: Arrival / Welcome Dinner
Our friendly staff will be at the airport waiting to greet you and bring you to your accommodation. After you get settled and rest, you’ll meet the rest of your team and enjoy a traditional dance show together. Our welcome dinner is a tasty one and will give you the opportunity to ask any questions about the days ahead.
Day 2: Cultural Tour / Trek Preparation
Today we’ll explore Kathmandu’s many religious and historic sites. In the afternoon, we’ll review our trekking itinerary and make sure you have the gear you need for a comfortable trip. You’ll also receive your trekking permit for Mera Peak. Spend the evening at your leisure; tomorrow’s a big day!
Day 03: Fly to Lukla (2800m). Trek Chuthanga (3080m)
Day 04: Rest day for acclimatisation.
Day 05: Trek to Thuli Kharka (4300m) via Zatrwa La (4610m)
Day 06: Trek to Thasing Dingma (3900m)
Day 07: Trek to Thagnak (4356m)
Day 08: Trek to Dig Kharka (4659m)
Day 09: Rest day for acclimatisation and exploration of area
Day 10: Trek to Mera La (5414m)
Day 11: Climbing practice and acclimatisation
Day 12: Climbing practice and acclimatisation
Day 13: Climbing practice and acclimatisation
Day 14: Trek High Camp (5850m)
Day 15: Summit attempt (6,654m). Return to Mera La (5414m).
Day 16: Mera La to Hongu Valley. We depart Mera La and trek down into the Hongu valley. An easier day decending down to around 4900m and trekking through the relatively flat Hongu Valley.
Day 17: Hongu Valley to Panch Pokhari. Trekking up to the end of the Hongu valley where we make a short ascent to Panch Pokhari. Our camp site is just below the Amphu Labtsa glacier with amazing views down the Hongu Valley from where we have come from.
Day 18: Cross the Amphu Labtsa pass to Chukhung. Starting off with the 100m climb to the top of the pass through the layered ice of the Amphu Labtsa glacier we then abseil down the north side of the pass lowering all our equipment down the same line. After a steep decent from the pass we trek along a relatively level track to Chukhung. Tonight will be our last night in tents. The climb over the high pass is one of the technical components of this expedition and is conducted under the supervision of the climbing Sherpa.
Day 19: Trek to Island Peak base camp.
Day 20-22: Island Peak climbing and summit.
Day 23: Trek to Thayangboche and Namche.
Day 24: Rest day in Namche (Extra day can be used on the mountain).
Day 25: Trek to Lukla. A short, steady climb up to the pass of Zatrwa La (approx 4600m), then 45mins on to the pass of Zatrywa Ogg. The terrain is spectacular, with expansive views to the south and west, taking in Karyolug and Numbur and rows of foothills. Initially it’s a steep descent over rock slabs, snow and ice, which becomes steep pastures heading down to the rhododendron forests and the first signs of farming.
It’s a long way to the relatively mild environment of Lukla, so take your time and maintain a steady pace. However, the thought of cold drinks and a chance to put your feet up is great motivation. It goes without saying that there will be an end of trek party to complete your adventure.
Day 26: Fly Lukla to Kathmandu.
Day 27: Spare day in Kathmandu (can be used just in case of bad weather on Mera or Island Peak)
Day 28: End of expedition.