Unsurpassed views of the Himalayas with Everest (8848m), Cho-Oyu (8201m), Lhotse (8516m), Makalu (8463m), Kanchenjunga (8586m) as well as Nuptse (7855m) and Chamlang (7319m) visible.
Mera peak climbing, the highest trekking peak in Nepal, unfolds the most exceptional panoramic view of FIVE of the world’s 8000 meter peaks in the Himalaya. 9 out of 11 trekkers climbed Mera peak on the 1st of May 2016. Similarly 43 trekkers climbed it successfully out of 54 booked in 2015.
All personal and group climbing gear is provided including La sportiva climbing boots, thus there is no need to buy or bring any expensive climbing gear.
Our Mera Peak climbing itinerary has been carefully crafted to ensure you receive proper acclimatisation along the way and you have been given proper climbing training before you head for the summit. We use longer and less trodden trails with gradual ascents to ensure proper away from any crowds. With over 14 years designing trips to Mera, we are confident you will be given every chance to reach her summit.
Part of our strategy is to set up high camp at about 5800m. In this way we will have a shorter summit attempt. This camp is established on a rocky outcrop, protected from the elements by a large vertical wall. The summit day starts early in morning and we approach the summit by the northern route – which involves a gradual climb with an outstanding mountain panoramas.
Climbing in comfort with the best equipment
We stay in the full-supported tented camps with EXPED down filled mattresses, for extra comfort. As a safety precaution, we always carry a Portable Altitude Chamber (PAC) and Oxygen along with a comprehensive medical kit and a satellite phone for communication in case of emergency so you can be completely confident that your safety and comfort are our priorities. Mountain Monarch provide all the personal and group climbing gears including LA-SPORTIVA’s Nepal Extreme climbing boots to make your trip to Mera Peak hassle free and cost effective.
Day 1: Arrival / Welcome Dinner
Our friendly staff will be at the airport waiting to greet you and bring you to your accommodation. After you get settled and rest, you’ll meet the rest of your team and enjoy a traditional dance show together. Our welcome dinner is a tasty one and will give you the opportunity to ask any questions about the days ahead.
Day 2: Cultural Tour / Trek Preparation
Today we’ll explore Kathmandu’s many religious and historic sites. In the afternoon, we’ll review our trekking itinerary and make sure you have the gear you need for a comfortable trip. You’ll also receive your trekking permit for Mera Peak. Spend the evening at your leisure; tomorrow’s a big day!
Day 3: Fly to Lukla and then to Puiya
After our flight to Lukla we will head away from the busy Everest Base Camp trail and head to Puiya
Day 4: Trek to Pangom (2800m)
Follow the main trail before turning up a path into the magical forest and traversing numerous ridges to the majestic valley of the Kari Khola. Although camp elevations are similar to previous days, the Chutok La (2945m) and the Khari La (3080m) ridges undulate. As you approach Pangum, set in a small bowl like valley immediately below the Pangum La, you’ll pass through beautiful rhododendron, pine and oak forests. This little known trail is used only by locals and, apart from a few small settlements along the way, you’ll see little evidence of human activity. Pangum is an ancient settlement, with a new Gompa and expansive views out over the valley.
Day 5: Nashing Dingma (2,600m)
Start the day with a challenging half an hour climb to the Pangum La (3175m), this is your gateway to the Hinku Valley. Then negotiate a solid descent of around 900 metres to the Hinku River. Camp is high on the other side near the Surke La. Travel through a mix of farmed terraced slopes interspersed by undisturbed forests of maples, rhododendrons and fir.
Day 6: Chalem Kharka (3,600m)
After climbing up to the Surke La (3085m) you’ll follow the spine of the Surkie Danda ridge northwards towards Mera and the Hinku, enjoying spectacular views along the way. You’ll camp part way along at a yak herders clearing, or ‘kharka’, to experience real Himalayan life. The next few days are far from teahouse and trekkers trails, offering some of the finest wilderness trekking in Nepal.
Day 7: Chunbu Kharka (4,200m)
Continue along the ridge, climbing higher and higher over knolls of up to 4500 metres. It’s well above the tree line, with grassy slopes, rocky outcrops and cliffs creating a unique landscape for trekking. Keep an eye out for birds of prey flying overhead such as griffon vultures, lammergeier and eagles. Descend to camp, near a series of five lakes, on the river of the Chunbu Drangka.
Day 8: Rest day at Chunbu Kharka
This is a very good place to have a rest day. You can recharge your batteries by taking in nature and the spectacular scenery. Spend some time taking stock of what you have achieved so far.
Day 9: To Hinku valley camp near Kote (3600m)
The route contours around ridges on the eastern side of the Hinku, descending into scree and rhododendron forests. Near the valley floor, encounter the devastation caused by the bursting of a natural damn destroyed the valley in 1998. There are vast boulders, dead trees and silt where ancient forests and meadows once stood.
Day 10: To Tagnag (4400m)
Now in the Hinku Valley proper, cross a yak herders’ bridge to join the main trail. Pass the busy village of Kote, primarily servicing the trekking groups heading for Mera, following the riverbed trail. Gain your first views of dramatic peaks of the valley, including Kusum kanguru and an unnamed peak over 6700m, before reaching Tagnag. You’ll enjoy your first views of Mera from the confluence of the Sanu Drangka above Kote. This is your first foray into real mountain terrain.
Day 11: Acclimatisation day and preparations
Tagnag is the ideal location for an acclimatisation day, preparing, and checking climbing gear. There are some great ridges and slopes to trek for a few hours to acclimatise. You can trek 500 metres up by following the ridge behind the village, gaining views towards Kusum Kanguru and Mera.
Days 12-13: To Base Camp (5000m) and preparation day
A tough but steady four hour climb to the last camp below the snowline. You’ll hike through a lateral moraine with many grassy culverts. En route, glimpse the remains of Sabai Tsho Lake that was directly fed by massive, almost vertical glaciers. It is suspected an enormous avalanche of ice slipped into the lake, causing a wave that broke through the loose rocks that formed the wall on its far side. It’s a humbling reminder of the power of nature.
A day is set aside for further climbing preparations, practicing harness, crampons and ice-axe use, plus trekking while roped together. Everyone will be fully briefed before heading up onto the mountain, providing invaluable experience for all. Whilst the route itself is fairly straightforward, there are hazards, so a good basic technique and awareness of changing conditions is vital. Your guide will supervise the trek on the mountain, making decisions from the route taken and equipment used, through to people’s fitness (mental and physical) to proceed. The guides decision is always final as they’re responsible for the safety and well being of the expedition - no safety compromises will ever be made.
Days 14-16: Summit attempt Mera Peak (6476m)
As long as the team ate ready and weather suitable, you’ll move up to the rock and glaciated camp just off the Mera La saddle, at approximately 5400m. Plastic mountaineering boots are usually worn from basecamp to the summit and back. Whilst they may feel a little clumsy, they are perfect for the job, providing warmth, protection and stability for the variable terrain. Another camp is set half way up the long north slope at about 5700m. Although it’s a shorter distance, it can be difficult in poor conditions and at altitude.
The summit bid will be made early in the morning (usually from 2-5am) taking around four to six hours. Whilst it might not look far it’s hard work but well worth it - all your training, preparation and positive attitude will pay off here. It’s usually necessary to rope up for much of the summit approach due to crevasse hazards. The route varies depending on the conditions but usually skirts around a major shoulder before traversing to the summit.
As dawn breaks, you’ll enjoy incredible views across to Baruntse (7129m), Chamlang (7319m) and Nau Lekh (6360m) with Makalu (8481m) looming behind. Further to the left is Everest, glimpsed over several unnamed peaks of the Hinku.
Due to the unstable nature of the summit it may be unsuitable to climb this final section, if this happens you’ll be designated an alternative summit a little further along the ridge. You’ll aim to make the summit early/mid-morning and return to basecamp at Kaare that afternoon.
The exact schedule depends on the weather, local conditions and how well the team’s doing. Our high quality equipment, experienced staff and time buffer all help achieve your goal. It’s a long day, but where the training, approach work, and right attitude combine to provide stamina and confidence, giving your team the best chance of summiting Mera.
Day 17: Contingency Day
This is a contingency day, allowing for inclement weather or poor conditions on the mountain. Those not wanting or able to continue on to the summit are able to stay comfortably at base camp enjoying the stunning mountain views all around. One or two staff members stay behind at camp, along with the porters.
Day 18: Descend to Tagnag (4350m)
Feeling tired but exhilarated, pack up and descend for two hours back to the permanent settlement in the valley. Enjoy a party and celebration meal, specially prepared by our cooks, in honour of your summit attempt.
Day 19: Descending the valley to Kote and then to Thuli Kharka (4300m)
Retracing your steps, follow the pastures and juniper meadows before dropping down to the riverbed and walking the boulder strewn path to Kote. It’s a large collection of timber huts spilling out on to the riverbed and very much a ‘half way house’ for porters and trekkers going to Mera.
Stroll through the forest beside the river, winding up through thick birch, rhododendron and pine. It’s not long before we break out of the forest and above the tree line, traversing around numerous ridges to the last camp at Chetrabu, or Thuli Kharka. It’s a solid seven hour day winding up to camp but you should be trekking fit by now, having established a steady pace to make it more manageable. In clear weather much of Mera Himal can be seen as a stunning reward for your climb.
Day 20: To Lukla (2800m)
A short, steady climb up to the pass of Zatrwa La (approx 4600m), then 45mins on to the pass of Zatrywa Ogg. The terrain is spectacular, with expansive views to the south and west, taking in Karyolug and Numbur and rows of foothills. Initially it’s a steep descent over rock slabs, snow and ice, which becomes steep pastures heading down to the rhododendron forests and the first signs of farming.
It’s a long way to the relatively mild environment of Lukla, so take your time and maintain a steady pace. However, the thought of cold drinks and a chance to put your feet up is great motivation. It goes without saying that there will be an end of trek party to complete your adventure.
Day 21: Fly back to Kathmandu. Time at your leisure, maybe a massage is called for.
Day 22: Depart for your next destination.